Paul by Paul Smith Autumn/Winter 14

For this season, the Paul by Paul Smith collection draws on the vivid, surrealist aesthetic of famed fashion photographer Erwin Blumenfeld.

Taking colours typical of Blumenfeld's work in the Fifties, autumnal shades of chartreuse, mustard, burgundy and rose are paired with olive and forest green, while demure silvery greys, mint greens and denim blues are enhanced with pops of neon coral and bright orange. Tailoring catches the eye in shades of ultramarine, while added interest comes through in raspberry-coloured leathers and silks and metallic highlights of silver and bronze over rich tones of graphite, navy and wood.

A graphic focus takes precedence across the varied prints, with eye-catching block patterns inspired by Fifties technicolour highlighting flowing viscose dresses, shirts and tops, and being seen across sweatshirting and puffa jacket pieces. Floral motifs have been reimagined in psychedelic designs in ultrabright shades and striking monochrome, chopped and spliced to create a graphic, shard-like effect. Meanwhile, classic motifs take on a new life with trompe l'oeil pleating, oversized polka dots and brushstroke stripes.

The silhouettes exude a Sixties feel synonymous with fashion icons of the time such as Jane Birkin and Françoise Hardy, featuring Mod-inspired fitted shift dresses with exposed metal zips, pencil skirts and classic parkas. Clean edges come through in graphic high-waisted skinny jeans and luxurious washed lamb's leather jackets, while the use of velvet devoré provides a softer feel. This playful approach to material is particularly exemplified across knitwear, from mohair jacquard, fluffy stripe and printed woven knits to designs utilising tubular jacquard with contrasting matte and shine textures.