Paul Smith Black Autumn/Winter 14 For autumn/winter 14, the Paul Smith Black collection draws on the surrealist photography of Man Ray. The collection uses his distorted and manipulated imagery to inform the prints and colours of new pieces, and inspiration also comes in the form of contemporary photographer Maria Robertson. Influenced by Man Ray, her work utilises layering to create stunning, dreamy artworks. Rich, dark tones redolent of Robertson's work are prevalent across the collection, interspersed with vibrant shades of orange and mustard. Meanwhile, the effect of the doubleexposure technique used by both artists is recalled in the palette of translucent blues, minks and corals. An eye-catching iris motif has been distorted and overlaid with graphic shapes to create a striking print available in monochrome and contrasting-colour versions, while a further print combining this floral with graphic spots is offered on delicate silk seersucker. This design ethos is carried through to structural checks, cleverly overlaid vertical stripes and bold, graphic letter prints in fluid silk and satin devoré. A Seventies-style rock'n'roll chic inspires the silhouette and fit of the collection, drawing on the fabulous wardrobes of such style icons as Bianca Jagger and Lauren Hutton, and exploring how this effortless sophistication has been carried over into a contemporary look by modern-day celebrities like Charlotte Gainsbourg. A focus on layering and a variety of textures allows a playful approach to constructing outfits, with semi-sheer and prints placed side-by-side, accented with flashes of metallics and velvet and jersey jacquards. Slim-fit tailoring is highlighted with pops of colour, while separates see graphic block-panelling combining print, colour and texture. This glamorous aesthetic continues to outerwear, with impeccably fitted pea coats, trench coats and Teflon-coated parkas with removable sheepskin trims.