Paul Smith Black AW12 Paul Smith Black combines luxurious tailoring with definitive, modern separates creating a strong feminine sensibility. Effortlessly identified by its witty twist on desirable classics, the essence of Black is highlighted in its confident, youthful attitude and contemporary style. This season draws influence from Peter Lindbergh’s photographs. His naturalist style is echoed throughout the collection, which shares a sense of effortless elegance. The expected and the unexpected are explored through a textural use of contrasting fabrics and tones. Tailoring shapes are elongated with clean shoulders, creating a long and lean silhouette. Tuxedo detailing has been added to printed and solid colour suiting and dresses, with shawl lapels in tonal contrasts and leather and jacquard trims. Pleat front trousers are key for a relaxed yet feminine fit. Oversized silk shirts are updated with open neck jacket reveres, lace collars and pleated front detailing to create a laid-back evening option. Dresses and skirts are fitted with waistcoat cinched detailing and added sheer organza panelling, whilst maxi styles are trimmed with pleated georgette lace. Wool cashmere with shearling panel placements are warm and luxurious outerwear options. Knitted sleeve jackets, cropped zip front bombers and quilted leathers are stylish new additions. Traditional outerwear is seen on classic longer length coats and soft wrap jackets, creating clean and easy shapes. British herringbone tweeds combined with contrasting panels add texture. Knitwear styles are a tonal combination of wintery classics; chunky cable, soft angora and feathery mohair knits are shown in oversized cardigans, zip through jackets and chunky outerwear shapes. Silk and wool cashmeres create simple statements with opposing patterns and collar and cuff detailing. Prints for the season emphasise distortion of colour and unusual depths of focus and scale, with waterbleed ink polka dots, halo spot and electric peony prints. Photogram floral and textured patchworked prints offer a graphic refinement. Playing with levels of light creates a balanced mix of warm heathery shades, highlighted with a strong block colour base; warm greys marls are shaded back with caramel, soft lilac and coral whilst inky blue tones are softened with winter white and oatmeal, punctuated with vivid pinks and rich plum.