Paul Smith Men's Autumn/Winter 14 Show

For autumn/winter 14, we glance back to the effortless style and hazy psychedelia of Jim Morrison. Relaxed tailoring and a sun-soaked palette combine as Morrison's iconic style inspires a comfortable 21st century elegance.

From the first exit the stage is set as a finely-crafted carpet fabric overcoat–complete with jacquard musical notes–establishes the silhouette for the collection; exaggerated drape, shoulders are soft and sleeves long. The look's completed with Oxford bag trousers that are tailored but with extreme volume in the leg. Throughout loose neck cashmere sweaters, sheepskin-lined hoodies and suede ponchos reassert a feeling of extravagant ease.

Formal tailoring is deconstructed, taking an informal turn for autumn/winter 14. Though still kept tight, jackets are longer in the body and complimented with knitwear rather than shirting to create a more casual look. A hint of showmanship comes through in exaggerated lapels, darts on the shoulders and outerwear that's occasionally belted at the waist to create a more dramatic shape.

Innovative fabrics inject further modernity into the collection's hints of nostalgia. Working closely with the world's leading mills, cloths have been beautifully engineered; camels and monkeys dance across intricately woven carpet fabric whilst Suri alpaca, crushed velvet and sequins create stage-ready, statement pieces.

Throughout, there's a consistent optimism to the palette and prints. Sunset orange, sandy shades, midnight blacks and deep blues offer a nod to dusty desert drives, whilst lucid flamingo and palm tree placement prints are reminiscent of neon lights during motel nights from Marfa to Vegas.

Complimenting the casual luxury of the clothing, the skate-inspired Jim shoe is seen in petrol blue nubuck with a moulded leather and rubber sole, whilst the Ray chukka and Benno boot each have uppers in thick wool, the prints coordinating with the collection.

Slip backstage at the show here.

Posted on 19th January 2014