Paul Smith Women's Autumn/Winter 13 Show

Debuting against the jaw-dropping backdrop of Tate Britain's East Wing, Paul Smith presented an autumn/winter 2013 women’s collection packed with modern sartorial staples, punctuated with pop and texture in colour and fabric combinations.

Contrasting soft alpaca tweeds and lambskin with silk twill and layered organza, the collection mixes hard and soft in fabrication. Colours collide as dark wintry shades sit beside more optimistic brights and a softened silhouette on the shoulder clashes with more harsh straight lines on trousers and in collars and sleeves in outerwear.
 
Geometric prints are subtly incorporated into fabrics, bonded onto felted wool and crisp cotton, the signature Paul Smith twist is injected in linings and soft accessories. Bespoke interpretations of houndstooth and the Prince of Wales check are scattered throughout and a photograph taken by Paul in Cuba of an ornate chandelier is incorporated into several looks, including a pair of red straight-leg trousers a teal silk shift.
 
An autumnal palette is punctuated with pops of bright, including fuchsia, cobalt, teal, rust, navy and silver, as well as neutral navy and off-white. Colour combinations vary – red and pink clash, while a graduating colour palette is also shown with complementary blue hues.
 
Vivid accessories mix and match with bold separates, either complementing rich hues or clashing with bright tailoring. The oversized portfolio clutch is a key accessory, available in an array of hues, as is the 'Ziggy' bag. The 'Base' holdall is reinvented this season with 'Point' fabric, designed by Paul in collaboration with textile designers Maharam. Key shoe styles include 'Pepper' court shoes with an elegant pointed toe, 'Eta' low-cut booties with ankle straps, 'Waters' elongated loafers and 'Miles' loafer ankle boots.
 
Peter Smith and Andrew Hale, responsible for the show's soundtrack explain: "We wanted to suggest a cool electronic feeling of sexuality, a kind of pop-up art disco which suited the clothes and the venue. Using unsigned music like the opening track "Ego" by Waterson and "Lights Down" by The New Sins together with post-industrial analog band Factory Floor combined a feeling of the underground with the Britishness implicit in all of Paul's collections. With Bowie thankfully back in everyone's minds and the expectation of his new album next month, using "Let's Dance" as a finale felt just right."
 
Here's to a bright and bold autumn/winter 13!
 
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Posted on 18th February 2013